It was getting warm again today, but we had slight tailwinds as we climbed over several hills and then to the turnoff at 40km. The last kilometers brought us closer to the Volga River again and then down to the ferry. Turned out it was a passenger ferry and left in two hours (1pm). So we found a store for lunch items, went to the post office and then on the ferry. I spoke with a man who introduced his profession as “officer†on the ride over. We had a Lonely Planet Guide that told us the likely hotels and picked out our candidate (Hotel Fatima). It took a bit to get through the city, and on the way we came across three other hotels. Each of them told us they were full. Finally we got to the designated hotel. They had room! We found and picked out a room, and then let them know about the bicycles. They were initially reluctant to allow bikes to the room but finally gave up on us foreigners. It was nice to get to a shower with warm water and otherwise change after some days on the road. Plan is to use tomorrow as a rest day and then be on the road again. However, more likely to try the roads towards Perm since weâ€
re still a bit gun shy about the M7.
As you can see, I’ve been able to upload some photos to the web site – though I wasn’t able to copy the larger originals and make thumbnails. Each internet location has its own different things that seem to work or not work. For example, gmail worked last night at this computer but seems to be having difficulties this morning (so if you didn’t see a mail, I wasn’t able to send it).
55km today, 4179km across Eurasia [Photo: 652, 656]
We’re likely to try going northeast from here towards Perm, rather than get back on that M7 motorway. Will see how it all comes out. Otherwise, having fun and feeling a bit challenged by riding here.
At 38km was a turn into a small road and village of Тобурдавно. I saw Mickeyâ€s bicycle against a house but didnâ€t see her. I heard a knock on a window and saw her inside. She had been photographing a woman carrying water and was then invited in as a guest. We had a good conversation, tea and bread as house guests. The woman was originally from Uzbekistan and had immigrated to Russia after the Soviet Union fell apart and there wasnâ€t work in Tashkent. She worked as a nurse and had three sons. She had enjoyed traveling and showed us many of her photos, including some of visits to (East) Germany. This was no longer possible due to visa reasons. We saw many of the family in different photographs. It was an interesting and pleasant house visit and nice place to relax.
As we left Тобурдавно, the road slowly worsened until it became a dried mud road. Fortunately it was dry packed and we had been warned to expect 7km of no road. After this a nice smooth road with some abrupt climbs but also sun and tailwinds. The distance seemed to float away until we found ourselves at 82km with an extended lunch in Бол Кайбицы. It was a hot afternoon and I had drunk all my water, so time to replenish. After a relaxing lunch, the last cycling to find a campsite and water. As we came close, a policeman waved me over. Turned out there was nothing wrong, he was just curious where I was traveling and otherwise asked the standard questions.
We found a nice campsite by the river and took a quick swim before retiring for the day.
106km today, 4124km across Eurasia [Photo: 639, 640, 643]
t necessarily better than the M7 but many many fewer trucks and some more hills.
I liked the truck stop as first place to get a shower in a while and eat meals. It was frustrating however to find that all water was off when we awoke (i.e. no toilets). We packed up, ate breakfast and were on the road early. At 3km we turned onto smaller roads southbound. The road started bumpy as we passed a construction zone. About 6km was larger town of Ядрин and then a crossing of the Сура river (the Сура is interesting because it is the river that goes through Пенза where we traveled last year). The hills started from here, but I was still fresh so didnâ€t notice as much.
At 36km we came to СоветÑкое. Several people were crowded around Mickey when I arrived. We were definitely a spectacle in this small village. To compound things, today was the day for the town festival with singing, dancing, athletic games all starting at 10am. We listened to a song or two, ate Шашлик and gave our greetings.
From here some more climbing and some wind as we went over the hills to Ðликово. The towns here had two names on the signs, a reflection of the Tatar influences here. We also noticed that the people here were more forward/aggressive so more likely to interact than quietly watch us go by. At 71km, we finally turned away from the strong crosswind and took a road heading east. We followed this until just about 100km and were then done for the day having ridden our 100km on a somewhat tough by scenic ride.
100km today, 4018km across Eurasia [Photo: 631, 634]
The 9am boat the other way was much less full. We loaded our bikes on and took the ferry across the water to ЛыÑково. Once again it was a little tougher to find our way out of town. However, we stopped person to ask and he decided to drive his car with us following to show us the route. Several twists and turns later and at 8km we were to the M7 motorway.
This road is one of the larger routes across Russia. It was busy with plenty of trucks on the road. Initially the road was ok, though it proceeded to climb up and over several hills and was slow going. Here we reached a point of road construction. All the traffic was routed onto one (very rough) lane. This was an obnoxious ride with many many trucks wanting to pass. I tried walking, riding on the closed parts, riding over the bumps. Anything I tried was slow going. At 25km we finally got through this part.
Unfortunately, the road didnâ€t improve after that. The road continued to be poor, narrow and full of trucks. The edges of the road were either deteriorated or there were deep ruts in the asphalt. It was a big challenge to ride and felt a bit dangerous and I walked a bit or two. I started wondering about hitching a ride past the worst parts here. Mickey came to the same conclusion even more strongly about somehow getting off of this road. We finally reached a truck stop at 77km and decided to just call it end of a frustrating day. If the M7 continues as busy/narrow it likely feels too dangerous to ride here. Weâ€ll need to get out the maps and look for a better alternative for a while. It was nice to get a hotel room here and first shower in a while.
77km today, 3918km across Eurasia [Photo: 620, 625, 627]
t there. She must have taken the other road and I was off track.
Ok, so now I hurried along to find my way back to the route. At 56km was the turnoff. I circled around a little looking, before going to Бор and stopping at the first store I saw. I decided to wait for an hour and see if she was behind and looking. At 40 minutes decided to give up and continue. [Unknown to me, Mickey had missed the same turn and was waiting a few kilometers ahead with similar idea].
Бор was a mid-sized town with a nice central market. After this the road became quieter and quieter. Some stretches were through the woods and it was mostly a good road. It was a little further than I expected. The towns were small and not much chance to stop in cafes. Finally at 4:30pm made it to Макарьево. I found Mickey here and sorted out our surprisingly similar stories of having missed the same turned and waited before continuing on.
In Макарьево was a nice old monastery with churches being restored. One of the nuns came out to invite us in, and the brought someone from the kitchen who spoke English. She carefully explained that no lodging was available and that we were welcome to visit two of the churches. Some quick looks before camping on outskirts of town.
143km today, 3841km across Eurasia [Photos: 606, 608, 609, 611]
The last few kms through Заволжье were along a high dike. We stopped in the cafй before setting across the Volga. The idea was to bypass Ðижний Ðовгород on other side of the river. Across a high dike and bridge was Городец. We came to outskirts of town and did some quick errands, buying screws and washers, trying to find a post office to send email and somehow started looking for a hotel. We were sent to center of town for that hotel, and then down along the river. Eventually we found it only to be told they had no rooms and sending us further to the next hotel. This one was 4km further and also no rooms (though we didnâ€t see a person in the rooms). We eventually decided to just make an easier day and found a place to camp outside town. I made my way back to town to find place to post a short internet update.
55km today, 3698km across Eurasia [Photo: 598, 600]
55km today, 3698km through Eurasia
]]>Today was a nice day of cycling with smooth roads. My tent was dry early so I got an early start. This area continues to have fallen in churches in the villages – a contrast with western Europe where they would have been restored. At Мыт was a small store. It seemed to be both a social center and place for goods with enough for 4 or 5 customers inside. Mickey caught up with me here.
From here some more quiet cycling with intermittent trees and intermittent bad roads until we came to ПеÑÑ‚Ñки at 60km. We cycled through most of the town before finding a cafй at the other end. Several Russians were interested in joining us at the table and recommended the kefir as better and less expensive than soft drinks. As we were eating, a big storm came through but fortunately we were able to bring the bicycles inside to wait out the storm. There also werenâ€t hot dishes once the power went out. The Russian table mates did tell us of several potential hotels including one by МамаЛена cafй.
We cycled our third segment past Ðовинки and then south along the river. We were on the lookout for МамаЛена and passed it the first time through. However, we had enough time to eat here and also wait out another storm. A little while later, the local mayor invited us to the town museum and also explained the hotel was in the town 4km away. We passed and found a place in the woods nearby.
109km today, 3643km across Eurasia [Photo: 593, 596]
t as tough to get into town as it is to get back out again.
Some mosquitoes in the morning kept things moving along. From freezing several nights ago, weâ€ve switched to close to 30C during the days. The road from ПиÑцово was fair and went through several nice small villages. By 28km we started into Иваново. Initially the road wasnâ€t bad as we found a supermarket at 33km and center of town 3km further. However, getting out was awkward and took several times of asking questions. Eventually we found ourselves to the outskirts to discover that we needed to still needed to head further south and to Кохма. In comparison to other European towns, these seem to be tougher to get out of properly.
It was still busy for several kilometers into Кохма. We were both hot and frustrated by this first town. Fortunately some cool shade and hot tea made things a bit easier. The next town was Ð¨ÑƒÑ and was smaller on the map. Rather than take the bypass, we elected to cross town again. Another good supermarket for food. As we cycled out, we were stopped by two reporters from a radio station. I was able to answer most of the simple questions (they are frequently similar about where we come from, are going to, etc). Iâ€m not sure what the radio will have to say about our trip.
This town was again awkward to exit and road conditions were worse. Fortunately, finally made it to Палех at the end of the day. Some quick perceptions from cycling along:
– People in this part of Russia are both friendly and curious. Weâ€re asked frequently where we are from, however people are also a little shy and donâ€t barge in to ask.
– Weâ€re seeing many more ruins of old churches here. This area has many agricultural villages, many with a church looking in some disrepair.
– Roads have become a little worse in this oblast. Weâ€ll see what we have coming up.
108km today, 3534km across Eurasia [Photo: 589, 591]
Now outbound! Much of the next 6km were uphill back to the main road. From here a jog left and a jog right onto a small road that went via ЗаÑчы-Холи. Just as I was getting concerned about lunch, we came to a small village with a little shop. It was closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays and also for lunch. Today it was open, and was the day the delivery truck came. People from the village much have known as they all came to the shop.
This old back road was pleasant cycling. It went up and over some low hills. Several of the villages had old churches in ruins. We followed the road until 78km and then turned to the main road to the east. This road was much more variable in condition, even after we crossed the oblast boundary into our 4th oblast. Finally at 114km, we stopped in ПиÑцово for end of the day. We found the small store, well and tanked up for the night before find a campsite nearby. Today was another good cycling day.
115km today, 3426km across Eurasia [Photo: 583, 585]
At 65km we crossed a bridge where the Volga streams out of the the lake. From here we followed signs to ЯроÑлавль which took us across town and along the south via a bypass. Fortunately, we found a cafй here. Many of the same foods were again available.
After this, the road became wider and busier. There were also one or two deep gullies to cross. Otherwise, still smooth and flat roads. Тутаев was atop a hill at 115km. From here just a little further as we found a area with many small dachas and also place to get water and camp for the night.
123km today, 3311km across Eurasia [Photo: 574, 576]
