Amsterdam to Vladivostok

What do you do if a road on your map doesn’t exist? The sane thing is probably to go back and try one that does exist. That wasn’t the choice I made today.

Last night I had visitors. I had camped a ways from the road but was still visible. As I was getting to sleep, a jeep pulled up with three guards. I explained things and they let me sleep. It was cold this morning as I had frost on the tent and ice in the water bottles. However, the sun was shining once it got over the trees. I followed the road east with some ups and downs. Mostly a good road but 9km of road construction: first 3km were smooth new road, middle 3km were being worked and last 3km were old but still smooth road. Now I know where all those dump trucks were headed yesterday.

At 42km, the road came to a T. There was a café and perfect place for a meal. From here I would go to Тюш and then try a road to cut across via Брехово to the Перм/Екатеринбург highway. I asked a nearby driver and he told me it was all asphalt! So I headed north to Тюш and turned into the town at 50km. At 53km I was at bottom of a hill and my road. It was gravel. The map said 26km to Алтынное and 28km after that. I walked a few hills but otherwise the gravel was ok to ride, just a little slower.

A truck driver slowed and asked if I had a map. He told me that it didn’t make sense to go to Алтынное, but instead turn 7km earlier at Озерки. I asked what that short cut was like and he pointed to a nearby rutted path.

By 72km I was at Озерки and I saw more than one rutted path. Not sure which one was which, I decided to stay on the larger road. At 79km I was in Алтынное and a little store. An old ruin of a church was here. Otherwise, it had a bit of an “end of the road” feel to it.

The road out of town didn’t exist. Despite being on both my maps, two different locals told me there wasn’t a road to Брехово. They suggested I follow local paths roughly north and overland. Now a dilemma. I had invested 26km onto this gravel road to come here and I really didn’t want to back track. So I started following a rough path that went in the direction the locals said. It turned and headed further east than they said. However rather than head overland, I decided to follow this path. I walked a total of 12km on this path before stopping for the night. Tomorrow, I will walk some further and hope to find the highway again.

91km today, 4934km across Eurasia. [Photo: 707, 710, 712, 713]

Good ride today with a few hilly bits. Cold again starting out. I could see my breath. Most of the trucks weren’t on the road when I departed so better than yesterdays finish. Only 8km to Воткинск where I turned to the south and had tailwinds. There were some more hills to climb but after 15km, it stayed mostly flat. Road conditions were variable. After Кварса at 20km. the road went into and through the woods. At 37km was Новый and a café.

Just after this, the road crossed a wide dam and into the Перм oblast and town of Чайковский with another hour of time change (if you aren’t keeping track, I’m now 2 hours east of Moscow). I tried the post office for internet but the only terminal was occupied by a teenager who looked like he was going to stay a while.

Just as I came to intersection out of town, I paused to make sure I would take the proper road. A man in a dark SUV drove up. He came to me and asked if he could photograph the bicycle. He was quite excited to see the Trek 520 bike. He had a Schwinn and asked if this was a good brand. I said yes. Unlike others, he was mostly interested in the bike and not other parts of the trip.

As I was cycling a little further, I came across a second person. He said he designed bicycles and again was interested in the bike. I asked him about road conditions. The SUV guy came up again after this. He had an orange reflective vest he wanted me to put on. I told him this wasn’t necessary though it was a good reminder to get out my orange windbreaker (I still had on my heavy blue coat). He also showed me a gun and asked if I needed one. I told him no, I wouldn’t need a gun.

The road ahead was variable with steadily increasing hills. There was some truck traffic, but overall traffic was light enough that it worked. The morning cold and clouds were gone. I stopped once at 78km for lunch and then slowly cycled the last kilometers to the end of the day.

108km today, 4723km across Eurasia. [Photo: 697, 698, 701, 702]

A good solid ride today, with some bumpy roads. It was cold overnight as the wind blew in from the northeast. The road noise was quiet last night (no ferry crossings to drive to overnight). I snuggled in the sleeping bag before getting on the road. Some gentle hills to climb and at 11km I was in Кильмезь. The sign said rough roads for the next 24km and except for 6km of new pavement, they meant it. I had pumped up my tires and so felt all the bumps.

At 35km I came to a fork in the road. A “short cut” headed east and was the one I guessed Mickey might have taken (or would take). However, to the first town was 13km of gravel and at least another 10km of path/road after that. I decided to stay on the paved road instead. To reward me, another 3km further was a café to revive me with some breakfast.

The road improved after this. As it went through forested areas to Сюмси. A few hills but my speed also went up. At 58km, I turned, this time onto an official road towards Ижевск. This would meet up with the short cut later. Again, I had 40km of mostly good road to Ува. It was a Saturday and several decorated wedding cars passed. The roads through Ува were worse again. I concentrated on riding and was almost through town before realizing I wanted to stop at a café. I found one just on the edge of town but it was closed. So, I rode further with intent to ride at first store/café and then camp. There were a few more hills to climb. A truck came past and then stopped. I had talked with the truck driver on the ferry the day before and he was surprised to see me. He also told me the next café would be in Нылга. I decided to continue slowly and before I knew it I was in the last hills to Нылга. Folks at the store were amazed at my trip and laughed at me when I used the word vacation to describe it. Glad to find a campsite nearby after a long but good ride.

137km today, 4507km across Eurasia. [Photo: 686, 688, 689]

I lost Mickey today. Not quite sure what happened. She cycles more quickly and normally goes ahead and waits at interesting points. I last saw her around 10km and then not again at any cafes, gas stations or anywhere else after that. I expected her in the towns at 35km, but by 63km I decided to make my own gas station stop and at 100km a lunch stop. Hopefully we will meet up again. I’ve cycled enough today that I’m not riding on in vague hopes of finding her somewhere.

Weather forecast called for hot (39C, 102F), so we were up early and on the road by 6am. This had an added benefit that the roads were quiet as we cycled through the middle of the city. The roads generally became wider but were still smooth. Most of the traffic was inbound. At 22km we crossed the ring road and the road started to get smaller and less crowded. My GI tract had been unsettled last night, but fortunately some Imodium helped.

The road was flat as it followed a river drainage and railroad. Several small towns along the way. The rest day had helped my cycling. At 70km came Арск with a small hill to climb. I was surprised to not find Mickey here. It was open with fields planted along the way. It was warming up and so kept going scanning for Mickey. Finally at 110km I came to an intersection where I filled up with water and a little while later decided to stop for the day, without signs of Mickey.

118 km today, 4297km across Eurasia. [Photo: 671, 672]