Another long ride today. We awoke today to find the wind had shifted and was coming from the south and blowing across the meadow. There were very occasional trees. At 29km was a turnoff to Екатеринославка. No cafe on the corner so we ate some food in a bus shelter out of the wind. Six kilometers later was a turnoff to Романовка where we decided to ride through town to find a store. We ate a little more here. As we returned to the main highway, there was a cafe at 39km at the corner. Not the best spacing, but we had three meals within 10km today.

From here more cycling into the wind on reasonable asphalt. Occasional trees and slight turns in the road helped with the wind. At 67km the road split with a turnoff to Завитинскn straight ahead. We turned left and found a cafe at 69km. We expect the road to return to gravel sometime after that and at 71km we were back on soft gravel. My front rack broke again. It was a slow slog and we walked some as well.

Our plan was to stop at Родионовка at 94km. Mickey was ahead and cycled right past the village (on autopilot, just cycling ahead). So, I followed. When I caught up, I stopped to fix my rack and we had to now figure out where to find water. We decided to keep going until next town (15km?) though it would be close to dark.

Fortunately, just ahead was a road crew paving a side road that went to an electric generating station. They yelled at us, so we went over to investigate. As we helped satisfy their curiosity, they were kind enough to fill our water bottles so we could camp not far away. We set up tents not long before sunset.

100km today, 11401km across Eurasia [Photo: 217, 218; photo 711 courtesy Mickey]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 11:07 PM EDT

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Last night was my turn to feel sick. I threw up and my stomach was queasy today. Fortunately, feeling better now. We’ve had some cold nights and warm afternoons so are taking off clothes through the day. I waited for the sun to ride before getting up. From here we started what we expected would be 20km more of gravel. Hence, we were pleasantly surprised to have asphalt at 4km. We cycled from here to Борисрол (this area has many Ukrainian immigrants) and here it was confirmed we would have asphalt for a while. It was slightly hilly as we cycled 24km to our first cafe stop.

From here we crossed a broad river valley and were back in wide open country. At 46km was a turnoff for Бозжаевка where we cycled into town to find a shop. A helpful 13-year old girl had a chance to practice her English and help navigate to a shop. Others were curious as well and she helped translate. She had learned English in this town. After the shop we came to the main road and unfortunately had several obnoxious drunks at the cafe here.

From here more wide open roads before fetching water from a nearby stream and camping not much further. We made a slightly shorter day but also wanted to rest some. It was nice and warm in the tent .

81km today, 11301km across Eurasia [Photo: 215, 216]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 1:16 AM EDT

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Is the Federal Highway paved? That was the key question of the day. We went with a majority opinion and it turned out to be wrong. We had our first answer yesterday. The local channel 12 TV station came to do a story (our third Russian press interview). We think the hotel tipped them off. While they were interviewing us, we asked questions about the roads ahead (answer: gravel). This morning we decided to take the ferry across the Зея river and then either the old road to Белогорск or the new road if it was paved. It was a nice ride through the city, finally reaching the ferry at 12km. The opinion of those on the ferry was definitely that the Federal Highway was paved. We were in luck as the ferry departs on odd numbered hours and we were there just before 9am.

Once off the ferry, we cycled 2km to the critical road junction and asked once more if the Federal Highway as paved. Hence, from here we took a cutoff road, over sometimes rough gravel and through small town of Молчаново at 24km. Here was a small store with several grandmother types on a bench having a social. Across the main street of town strolled a pig with 11 piglets. We cycled from here through Половка and then the last kilometers to reach the Federal Highway junction at 34km. We cycled to the interchange. It was paved northbound and just where we started it turned to a soft gravel. If only we had known, we could have spent the last 22km on the old road.

It was a slow ride on the new gravel. The terrain was flat and we had a tailwind, but there were many loose rocks and lots of dust. It was wide open with few trees. Some cars would slow and ask where we were traveling and in return we would ask how long until asphalt. Each answer seemed to be slightly further. At 68km we reached Укранка. A herd of cows was crossing the road to nearby lake. Cars stopped and we used it as an opportunity to ask again. We must have looked dejected enough at the answer that the driver was kind enough to give us a large 6 liter jug with water along with the answer that it would be a while to asphalt and the next cafe.

73km today, 11220km across Eurasia [Photo: 207, 212, 214]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 9:12 AM EDT

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Today we reached the somewhat larger town of Svobodny. We’ve had a few rest/rain/sick days in the past, so plan is to stay here one night before continuing on to Khabarovsk. Hence, I’ll write this update from here but further web text and photo uploads will occur later down the road.

We’re now about 2/3rd of the way between Chita and Khabarovsk. The past 850km have been over some rough roads almost all gravel roads. These roads are slow riding, about half as fast as we would otherwise ride on asphalt. Fortunately, we got a first stretch of asphalt yesterday and expect some more asphalt sections between here and Khabarovsk. Mickey got sick from something one day out of Mogocha (and is all well better now for days), but we also spent a day and a half near small village of Amazar, camped out in a nice piece of woods not too far from town. On the day following, we took liberty of getting ride with a passing 18-wheeler semi-trailer from km764 to km1027 of the road. We skipped some very rough sections of road including some with massive construction projects. That certainly helped our spirits and progress to jump over some of the worst gravel pieces on this road. We still had several hundred to go after that, so don’t feel too bad at having missed the ugly stuff. Riding in the 18-wheeler was interesting. Valerie and Victor made their living by driving for 7 days from Krasnoyarsk to Vladivostok. Here they picked up a load of 8 used Japanese automobiles and then drove back to Krasnoyarsk in another week. We had a good time with them in the cab and there was plenty of room on the auto carrier to lash the bicycles.

We can tell when the roads coming up are particularly rough since we’ll see people stop and take our pictures more often. In rough stretches, at least 90% of the traffic is hauling used Japanese right-hand drive automobiles to the west. They are typically all taped up to protect finish and windshields (though as an optimistic sign, we’re seeing less tape on the cars coming up). They’ll drive where they want on the road. On the worst pieces they drive slowly, but if it is slightly better we have some testosterone laden drivers thinking they are Mario Andretti driving their Japanese town car on the roads.

A few days ago we had two days of rain. We skipped the first day and had a nice reading day in the tent. However, at this point our extra food was gone and hence we were cycling on the second day. Some sections of road were good but others were texture of peanut butter. It was all a bit slow and dirty. Fortunately, we’ve got sunny skies again and are now seeing slight signs of fall with cold mornings and even some leaves turning colors.

This morning was first morning to wear mittens. We cycled into Svobody, only 31km and found a nice cafe. We were pleasantly surprised to have hotel on second floor as well. Hence, a good day to get showers and wash clothes. With our other rest days plan is to take off again tomorrow and get some more cycling towards Khabarovsk. It is nice to slowly be getting closer to Vladivostok on our ride.

Posted by mev as Far East, Amur Highway at 12:39 PM EDT

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A cold morning today. We started back on the rough gravel road. Not too many potholes but still rough. At 21km we reached Базисное and a cafe. From here another 14km and were to turnoff to Шимановск. They were building a large road interchange including a new bridge. We walked up to ask for next cafe and then crossed the bridge through construction as well. At this point at 35km, the asphalt started!

We had a nice, very smooth road that had gentle hills. It was nice to suddenly travel nearly twice as fast as before. There wasn’t anything as far as villages were concerned. At 79km, the new road suddenly stopped with signs to Углегорск (1km) and Свободныи (49km). We chose the former to find a store and cafe. Углегорск was all walled off with guard stations. Apparently this is a space command and missile city. We did find a cafe however at the gas station.

From here the new road wasn’t ready, so we were on the old road headed towards Свободныи. It was also paved, though rougher. We cycled through village of Разливная looking for a store and then on to Черновка. Many of the towns people had produce out for sale and we had some good corn on the cob. We asked for water and then camped in the woods south of town. A nice variety of roads today and nice to see asphalt again.

101km today, 11120km across Eurasia [Photo: 191, 194, 197, 198]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 1:53 PM EDT

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It was nice to look out the warehouse and see sunny skies again. We took our time getting out today and first wiped off the worst crud off the bikes. Mickey was changing front tires. We cycled 10km through damp sand back to the federal highway. Here was a woman selling vegetables. I bought a small jar of jam.

The federal road was a busy road and fairly bumpy. There were many small potholes. The cars would ride on the left at least as often as not, but fortunately would move as we approached. At 13km was a stop for a cafe. This place was very popular. We had our photos taken again here. We’re a bit of a curiosity for these car drivers. One of the questions I was asked was if I had a telephone. When I said yes, they expected a satellite phone and were amused when I said “MTS” (think Verizon or similar in USA). The drivers did give us a Khabarovsk map, which was much appreciated.

From here just slow bouncing along the road. Our average speed was slow, but otherwise it was a nice ride. This was more forested areas and a bit of swamp as well. The one drawback was that we didn’t have much in way of streams. We stopped by the only river today, filled up on water and camped just a few kilometers further.

75km today, 11019km across Eurasia [Photo: 185, 188]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 1:26 PM EDT

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It stayed mostly dry last night and was overcast in the morning. We hoped for drying and improving weather but instead got first drizzle and then rain. The roads were a mixed bag. Some were hardpacked rocks and some were soft peanut butter texture. We followed the old road mostly along the tracks.

We had eaten all our food the day before so hoped to find a store in Чалганы at 18km. Didn’t see much here and it was early. As we continued the drizzle increased so Mickey went ahead to Ушумун to come at 42km.

When I got to Ушумун, I could see her tracks but then lost them so asked my way to a store. I found the store but no Mickey. I cycled back through town and then to the entrance. Not sure where she was, I waited for 45 minutes and asked folks. Finally, I decided to continue since I was getting cold and wet. In a few km, I saw her tracks on the road. She had seen me but was busy chasing some youths who had stolen her bicycle pump. She had left town via a different entrance.

By now the rain was steady. We continued for another 24km to reach Сиваки and another store. We were cold and wet. Prospects of pitching wet tents in the rain were unappealing. We saw an empty concrete warehouse building. A few doors were filled with trash, but last one was cleaner. We cleared some more and pitched our tents dry and inside.

74km today, 10944km across Eurasia [Photo: 178]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 11:30 PM EDT

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It rained. Rained all last night and all morning. Continued some the next night as well. We’ve eaten our extra food so will need to travel tomorrow.

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 7:34 AM EDT

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We thought today would be an easier/shorter day, but still ended up with a long day riding on a wide assortment of roads. For 42km we were on asphalt. Some of the rest was hardpacked road with loose gravel on top. We had a mix of everything in between.

We started the day on pavement. The road was a fairly recent concrete road with some tar/asphalt on top. It went via some gentle hills but otherwise through the forest. At 26km we had a turnoff to Магдагачи for 5km. We thought there might be a cafe at the next turnoff. However, nothing at next turnoff and road turned to gravel.

In the next stretch, they were busy with construction. One short stretch of loose gravel we walked, but most were good to ride with a variety of sand, gravel, graded gravel and rock surfaces.

At 64km, we came to turnoff to Дактуй. We were told this village had a store but not much else. They also said the road would improve. So at 68km, we made our own lunch stop not far from a bridge still being constructed. Shortly thereafter, the road became worse. It was a combination of hardpacked surface with areas of loose gravel. I found this particularly tough to ride.

By 84km, we came to turnoff to Тыгда and were surprised to say it still said 14km to go. However, the road to town was paved and the road ahead had a new layer of gravel spread out. So, not a tough choice. We cycled to Тыгда and found a nice center of town with shops, railway and cafй. We refilled on everything and camped a short distance south of town. Tomorrow plan is to try the old road.

104km today, 10870km across Eurasia [Photo: 173, 176]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 8:23 AM EDT

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Roads today were a marked improvement, particularly in the morning. The terrain was also flatter, so made for an easier day. I had my photo taken four or five times today by people driving the imported Japanese cars. This tells me we still have a ways to go with people surprised to find bicycles “all the way out here”.

We left a little later today after sorting everything out with the bikes. Hitchhiking yesterday had left a fine layer of dust everywhere including the drive chain. The gravel road started much improved; fewer large rocky boulders, less hardpack and gentler grades. We even had a tailwind! This was a taiga forest with white birch/larch and some evergreens. We made it to Талдан for an early lunch at 30km.

From here we continued on the new gravel road. The quality of the road gradually worsened, with a lot of hardpack in particular. My bike was rattling a lot. There wasn’t a lot to see, though we did go over a few hills. It became warm and we slowed. At 80km, we reached Гонжа. We cycled into town to find a store, water and cafe before camping 2km out of town. Those last 2km were on pavement, and we’ll have a short amount here tomorrow as well.

86km today, 10766km across Eurasia [Photo: 166, 167]

Posted by john as Far East, Amur Highway at 6:00 PM EDT

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